Q: Can I use the same wire for all trellis wires?
A: Yes, you can use the same wire for all trellis wires. Most wine grape growers typically use 12 1/2 gauge hi-tensile wire for all foliage and cordon wires, though 14 gauge H-T wire is used by some growers for foliage wires. This lighter gauge wire is less costly on a per foot basis then 12 1/2 ga.. For anchor/end post wires, growers typically use multiple loops of 12 1/2 ga. H-T wire or one loop of 9 ga. H-T wire.

Q: How do I anchor my cordon and drip wires to the end posts?
A: The Wirelock wire anchor is an easy and convenient way of anchoring these wires to the end posts. A 5/8" hole is drilled through the end post at the height at which the wire you want to anchor is located. Simply run the wire down the row and feed it through it through the 5/8" hole. Cut the wire leaving 2-3 feet of excess. After cutting the wire, slide the Wirelock wire anchor onto the wire and insert into the hole. The Wirelock wire anchor allows wires to be re-tensioned should they become loose. Additionally, no tool is required to release wire tension should that become desirable, and one size Wirelock accommodates most sizes of wire.

Q: Which type of wire should I use in my vineyard?
A: The most common type of wire used in vineyard applications is class 3 galvanized H-T wire. While some growers use aluminum-clad wire, this wire is not recommended for vineyard use. Aluminum-clad wire does not offer the galvanic healing properties of galvanized wire. Should the coating on aluminum-clad wire become damaged (through nicks or abrasions caused by machinery, pruners, mishandling, etc.), bare steel will be exposed to the elements, rust will surely develop, and the wire will eventually fail. Even the popular Gripple will eventually chip away at the aluminum coating of aluminum-clad wire and eventually fail. A brand new type of wire on the market is called Zalcote wire. A hybrid of aluminum and zinc, Zalcote wire offers a minimum life expectancy of twice that of class 3 galvanized wire. Zalcote, in addition to offering the benefits of galvanized wire, offers the benefits of aluminum-clad wire.

Q: What is Zalcote wire?
A: Zalcote wire is a high quality hi-tensile wire, coated with a coating containing a mixture of 95% zinc (nominal) and 5% aluminum (nominal). The coating offers all the benefits of galvanized wire including its galvanic healing properties, but also the corrosion resistance properties of aluminum. The wire is comparably priced to class 3 galvanized wire. Tensile strength of the Zalcote wire are 200,000 psi to 244,000 psi. Zalcote wire is suitable for electrified and non-electrified fences.

Q: How do I pay out my wire when constructing my trellis?
A: The vast of majority of H-T wire is packaged in coils that contain no reel or spool. To pay out this type of coil, a spinning jenny or wire dereeler is necessary. These devices allow the wire to spin freely and wire to be removed systematically. In addition to the standard coil, we offer galvanized wire on a wooden reel. The wooden reel does not require a spinning jenny or dereeler to pay out the wire. All that is required is a steel rod or similar object that is inserted into the center of the spool. Several spools can be stacked either side by side or onto one another and multiple wires can be run simultaneously. Growers find it convenient to place 1-3 spools on a rod that is inserted onto their tractor's 3-pt hitch. Wire can then be run down the rows simply by driving the tractor down the row.

What are the advantages of the Vinstake trellis stake over timber line posts?
A: The Vinstake metal stake is easier to drive into the ground than timber posts. The Vinstake metal stake is ready to use once driven into the ground. Because of the stake's built-in wire tags, no staples are needed to contain trellis wires. The Vinstake's built-in flexibility require less beater power of mechanical harvesters during harvest, thereby reducing potential vine damage caused by harvesters. Because the Vinstake can be driven into the ground with a hand held driver, it is ideal for replacing posts in existing vineyards.

Q: How far apart should I space the Vinstakes?
A: Vinstakes are to be spaced according to expected crop loads. The greater the expected yields, the closer the spacing. Common spacings are 3 vines per panel.

Q: What are the differences between T-Posts and the Vinstake?
A: T-posts are not recommended as vineyard trellis posts. T-posts are not galvanized as the Vinstake, they bend not flex like the Vinstake, and perhaps most importantly, T-posts require the use of wire clips to contain trellis wires. With multi-wire systems such as the Scott Henry system, T-post wire clips can become very cumbersome and labor intensive to install and maintain. Additionally, T-posts are very difficult to retrofit, should the decision to switch to another trellis system be made.

Q: How do I drive the Vinstake into the ground?
A: Most users of the Vinstake use the hand driver that is specially made to fit into the Vinstake. The driver is made so that it cannot turn or pop out from the stake while driving.

Q: Can I tie knots in the wire to fasten the wire?
A: We do not recommend that you tie any knots in hi-tensile wire. Numerous tests have proven that knots reduce the integrity of H-T wire, significantly reducing the wire's tensile strength.

Q: If I cannot tie my wires, how should I "tie-off" my foliage wire?
A: Foliage wires can be tied off a number of ways. They can be permanently tied off using crimping sleeves. Crimping sleeves are a permanent way of tying off wires, therefore the wires cannot be re-tensioned unless they are cut and re-crimped, or unless in-line strainers are spliced into the lines. Re-tensionable splicing hardware such as the Gripple and Wirelok Wire Joiner are effective methods to fasten catch wires, and can be re-tensioned should the wires become loose. The Gripple should not be used with aluminum-clad wire.

Q: How does the Gripple differ from the Wirelok Wire Joiner?
A: The Wirelok is basically an industrial strength gripple, only better. The Wirelok Wire Joiner is used in exactly the same manner as the Gripple though Wirelok's holding strength is approximately 45% greater then the Gripple. The Wirelok is suitable for aluminum clad wire whereas the Gripple is not.

Q: How tight should I tension my trellis wires?
A: Cordon wires should be strained to approximately 250 pound/ft. Although no hard fast rules exist, experienced vineyard manages consider less than 15 cm sag at mid panel during harvest acceptable. Foliage wires need not be tight. Though the looser they are, the greater the sag that will occur as the weight load increases. The greater the sag, the greater the amount of shading that can occur.

Q: How do I secure moveable wires to the line posts?
A: Moveable wires can be secured to line posts using the prudent wire clip or galvanized "J" staples (aka one-leg staple). The prudent wire clip is the most effective way of securing moveable wires. Attached to the post using a standard two-leg staple, the prudent clip is made of durable UV inhibited plastic and has clips on both the top and bottom of the clip to "grab" the wire. "J" staples, while effective, are cumbersome to drive successfully into the post and have a tendency to pop out of the post and turn upside down. Perhaps most importantly, "J" staples will eventually rub the coating off the wire it is holding. Allowing rust to form and the wire to prematurely age. The Prudent Wire Clip will not damage any type of coating and is especially recommended for aluminum-clad wire.

Q: How can I prevent shoots from hanging into the middle of the row and blocking sunlight?
A: If the foliage wires are sufficiently tight, you may want to try using the "C" clip to tighten up the wires a bit more. The "C" clip is UV inhibited plastic and helps to tighten up the canopy and eliminate excessive unwanted shading.

Q: How do I get the earth anchors into the ground?
A: There are several ways of doing this. You can auger a hole, put the anchor into the ground, then backfill the hole with soil. Alternatively, the anchors can be screwed into the ground either manually or mechanically. Adapters are readily available or you can build one that will enable you to screw the anchor into the ground using the PTO driven auger. If screwing the anchor into the ground manually, insert a rod into the eye of the anchor and turn.

Q: How far should the anchors be put into the ground?
A: Growers typically either screw them far enough into the ground so that approximately 8-10 inches of the anchor rod are sticking out of the ground or they screw them completely into the ground, leaving the anchor eye at or slightly below ground level. By leaving 8-10 inches out of the ground, the anchor can be easily spotted thus avoiding damage to machinery and the anchor itself. By putting the eye of the anchor at or below ground level, most potential damage to machinery can be avoided.

Q: Should the earth anchors be installed straight into the ground or at an angle, pointing towards the end post to which it will be supporting?
A: Ideally, the anchor should be installed at such an angle that it is simply an extension of the wire connecting the anchor to the end post. Practically speaking this can be difficult to do. If the anchor is place straight into the ground, periodic tensioning will likely be required until the anchor becomes more and more in line with the end post/anchor wire.

Q: If I need to cut corners to save money, can I cut corners on the type of end assembly that I use?
A: Perhaps the most important part of the trellis is the end assembly. End assemblies are components that have the biggest role to play in keeping wires taught and carrying the changing weight loads brought on by canopy and fruit density, temperature fluctuations and wind. End assemblies typically carry between 1,570-3,370 pounds force. Wires used in end assemblies should equal the sum of all wires secured to the end post. In other words, if the trellis system used has 2 cordon wires and 6 foliage wires (count foliage wires as half) then use 5-6 strands (or 2-3 loops) of tie back wire on the end assembly. Line posts play only a small part in supporting vineyard canopies.

Q: How high should the tops of the posts be?
A: For non-divided canopies such as VSP, line posts are typically 8' long, with 2' in the ground, and 6' out of the ground. For divided canopies such as the Scott-Henry or Smart-Dyson systems, 9' line posts are standard, with 2' in the ground, 7' out of the ground.

Q: How high should the Cordon wire(s) be placed off the ground?
A: Varying from sight to sight and even among different trellis systems, cordon wire(s) are typically at least 36" off the ground though examples can be found of lower cordon wires. For areas prone to frost, higher placements of cordon wires should be considered. Placement of these wires should be decided upon only after issues such as frost, machinery to be used, varieties planted as well as ease of harvesting issues are considered.

Q: What can I use to encourage newly planted vines to grow straight?
A: Newly planted vines should be trained so that the trunks grow as straight as possible. Grow tubes can help with this, but vine ties can be used as training ties. As the vines grow upwards, be sure to have the vine tie wrapped around the vines sufficiently enough to ensure straight growth. One side of the vine tie contains "rounded" edges that will help to damage any unhardened tissue. This side should be wrapped so that it comes in contact with the vine.